Rummikub

The classic tile game of runs and groups! Break the ice with 30 points, rearrange the whole table, and be the first to play every tile from your rack.

Frequently Asked Questions

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What is Rummikub?

Rummikub is a classic tile game for 2–4 players, often called Israeli rummy. It uses 106 tiles — numbers 1–13 in four colors (two copies of each) plus 2 Jokers. Players meld tiles into runs and groups, and the first to play all 14 starting tiles from their rack wins the round.

How do I play Rummikub?

Each player starts with 14 tiles. On your turn, either place tiles onto the table or draw one tile from the pool. Your first placement (the initial meld) must use only your own tiles and total at least 30 points. After that you may add to existing melds and rearrange the table freely, as long as every meld is legal when you end your turn.

What is the initial meld 30-point rule?

Before you may use table tiles, your first placement must come only from your own rack and be worth at least 30 points, where each tile counts as its face value. For example, a run of 10-11-12 scores 33 points. You may combine several smaller melds in the same turn to reach 30, and you can keep playing in that same turn after breaking the ice.

What are the Joker rules in Rummikub?

A Joker can represent any tile needed to complete a meld. You may retrieve a Joker from the table only by replacing it with a tile from your rack that exactly matches what it currently represents. The taken Joker must be played again in the same turn as part of a new meld containing at least 2 tiles from your rack. Officially Jokers cannot be used in the initial meld, and a Joker left on your rack at the end costs 30 penalty points.

What is a run and what is a group?

A group (set) is 3 or 4 tiles of the same number in different colors, like black 7, blue 7 and red 7. A run (sequence) is 3 or more consecutive numbers in a single color, like red 6-7-8-9. Runs never wrap around — after 13 the sequence ends; it is not followed by a 1. Every meld on the table must contain at least 3 tiles.

Can you rearrange tiles on the table in Rummikub?

Yes — rearranging (manipulation) is the heart of the modern Sabra rules. You may add tiles to any meld, split melds, borrow tiles and rebuild the layout during your turn, provided every meld is legal again when you end your turn and no tile leaves the table. If you cannot place anything, you draw one tile instead.

How does scoring work in Rummikub?

When a player empties their rack, the round ends immediately. Each other player scores minus the total face value of tiles left on their rack (a Joker counts 30), and the winner scores the sum of all those penalties, so scores always balance to zero. Players usually agree on a number of rounds and add up the totals.

How many tiles are in Rummikub?

A standard Rummikub set contains 106 tiles: the numbers 1 to 13 in four colors (black, blue, red, orange) with two copies of every tile (104 in total), plus 2 Jokers. Each player is dealt 14 tiles at the start of a round, and the rest form the draw pool.

Explore Game Details

How to Play Rummikub

Goal: Be the first player to play every tile from your rack onto the table. The classic set contains 106 tiles: numbers 1–13 in four colors (black, blue, red, orange), two copies of each, plus 2 Jokers.

Setup

  • All 106 tiles are shuffled face down. Each player draws 14 tiles for their rack.
  • Play proceeds clockwise. On your turn you either place tiles or draw one tile from the pool.

Melds

Tiles are played in groups called melds. At the end of every turn, every meld on the table must be legal (at least 3 tiles):

  • Group: the same number in different colors, e.g. black 7 + blue 7 + red 7. At most 4 tiles (one per color).
  • Run: consecutive numbers in one color, e.g. red 6-7-8-9. A run never wraps around: 13 is never followed by 1.

The initial meld (breaking the ice)

Before you may use table tiles, your first placement must come only from your own rack and total at least 30 points (a tile is worth its number; 10-11-12 = 33). You may split the 30 points across several melds in the same turn. Once you have melded, you may immediately keep playing in that same turn.

Manipulating the table

After breaking the ice you may add tiles to any meld, split melds, borrow tiles, and rearrange the whole table — as long as every meld is legal again when you end your turn, and no tile ever leaves the table. If you cannot (or prefer not to) place anything, you draw one tile from the pool instead. When the pool is empty and nobody can play, the round ends and the player with the lowest remaining tile value wins.

Jokers

  • A Joker stands for any tile it needs to complete a meld.
  • A Joker on the table can only be replaced by a tile from your rack that exactly matches what it currently represents (in a 3-tile group, any missing color of the same number works).
  • The taken Joker must be used in the same turn, in a new meld together with at least 2 tiles from your rack.
  • By the official rule a Joker may not be used in the initial meld (this implementation offers it as an option).
  • A Joker still on your rack at the end of the round costs 30 penalty points.

Winning and scoring

The first player to empty their rack wins the round. Every other player scores minus the value of the tiles left on their rack (Joker = 30), and the winner scores the sum of those penalties. Over several rounds, the highest total wins the match.

Strategy Tips

Opening: Sort your rack and hunt for the fastest safe 30 points. Two medium melds (e.g. a run of 10-11-12 and a small group) are often easier to find than one big one. Keep flexible tiles — a 5 of one color sits in more runs than a 1 or a 13.

Hold your Joker: A Joker is worth 30 penalty points if stuck on your rack, but it is also your most flexible tool. Use it to break the ice only if you enabled the permissive option and nothing better exists; otherwise save it to dump several dead tiles in one dramatic turn.

Manipulation is the real game: After the ice is broken, look for splits: a 4-tile group missing one color, a long run you can break into two runs with tiles from your rack, or a borrowed middle tile that completes a group elsewhere. Every borrowed tile must be replaced, so count before you commit — ending your turn with an invalid table means you must keep rearranging.

Watch the pool: Fewer than 10 tiles in the pool means what you see is mostly what there is. Track which numbers and colors appeared twice, and avoid holding the last copy of a tile your opponents are clearly collecting. When opponents are one tile from winning, avoid adding the exact tile that lets them go out — sometimes drawing deliberately is the safer line.

About Rummikub

Rummikub was created by Romanian-born Israeli Ephraim Hertzano around 1950. When card games were banned under Israel's early government, Hertzano began hand-making tile sets and selling them house to house — the game combines rummy-style melding with mahjong-style tiles. His family company Lemada Light Industries still owns the brand today.

The modern international rules follow the Sabra version from Hertzano's 1978 book The Official Rummikub Book, which allows free manipulation of the table — the mechanic that gives the game its depth. Rummikub won the 1980 Spiel des Jahres (German Game of the Year) and became one of the best-selling family games in the world, popular far beyond its Israeli origins.

This digital implementation follows the mainstream 106-tile / 30-point / 2-Joker rules with a validated table-manipulation engine, an undo stack, and three AI difficulty levels. It is an unofficial, fan-made version for education and entertainment.

Rummikub is a trademark of its respective owner. This page is an unofficial, fan-made implementation and is not affiliated with or endorsed by the trademark owner.

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